A Guide to Antique, Vintage & Modern Jewellery
Antique and vintage jewellery tells the story of changing fashions, craftsmanship and history. From the romance of the Victorian era to the bold geometry of Art Deco, every period has its own distinctive characteristics.
Whether you're discovering antique jewellery for the first time or looking to identify a treasured heirloom, our guide explores the defining styles, gemstones and design features of each era.
Georgian Jewellery (1714–1837)
History
Named after the four King Georges (and William IV) who reigned across this 120+ year span, taking in the Rococo, Neoclassical and Romantic movements. Everything was completely handmade – the rolling mill wasn't even invented until 1750, so gold had to be hammered flat by hand. Settings were almost always closed-back with coloured foil behind the stones to boost their sparkle by candlelight.
Typical Gemstones
Diamonds, diamonds and more diamonds (mostly post-1725 when diamonds became more readily available). Georgian jewellery is known for loving a full coverage of diamonds which glistened in candlelit chandeliers. Gemstones also included emeralds, rock crystal (quartz), garnets and topaz.
Styles of Setting
Cut-down collets. They look a little like a modern rub-over setting but sit lower with tiny claws that come up over the diamond.
Popular Designs
- Rivière necklaces
- Rock crystal rings with engraving
- Enamel rings
Look Out For
- Paste used instead of gemstones
- Coloured foil behind colourless stones
- Closed-back gold settings, particularly rings
Victorian Jewellery (1837–1901)
History
Named after Queen Victoria's 64-year reign and usually divided into three distinct periods:
- Romantic Period (1837–1861) – inspired by her love for Prince Albert.
- Grand Period (1861–1885) – following Albert's death, mourning jewellery became fashionable.
- Aesthetic Period (1885–1901) – lighter, more delicate jewellery returned to fashion.
Typical Gemstones
Pearls, turquoise, diamonds, coral, onyx and opals.
Styles of Setting
- Claw settings
- Rub-over settings
- Scroll designs
Popular Designs
Queen Victoria popularised the snake motif (the ouroboros), symbolising eternal love. Etruscan Revival jewellery with intricate gold beadwork also became highly fashionable.
Look Out For
- Memento mori jewellery
- Black enamel mourning jewellery
- White enamel memorial jewellery for children
- Hearts, clasped hands and knot motifs
Belle Époque (1890–1915)
History
Meaning "Beautiful Era" in French, Belle Époque encompasses the Art Nouveau, Arts & Crafts and Edwardian movements. Jewellery often featured pendants, necklets and brooches. Platinum allowed jewellers to create increasingly delicate filigree designs.
Typical Gemstones
- Diamonds
- Pearls
Styles of Setting
- Platinum lace-like settings
- Knife-edge mounts
- Millegrain edging
Popular Designs
- Scrolls
- Garlands
- Bows
- Lace
- Fan motifs
- Filigree
Look Out For
Think René Lalique-inspired designs and large decorative brooches.
Art Nouveau (1890–1910)
History
Created in France during the late nineteenth century, Art Nouveau was a relatively short-lived movement before the onset of the First World War. Known for its flowing organic forms, many pieces were handmade and highly artistic. Jewellery frequently featured female figures and nature-inspired themes that were considered daring for their time.
Typical Gemstones
Art Nouveau focused less on gemstones and more on artistic materials.
Common materials included:
- Pearls
- Opals
- Diamonds
- Shell
- Horn
- Ivory
- Enamel
Styles of Setting
- Claw settings
- Rub-over settings
- Articulated sections
Popular Designs
- Flowers
- Women
- Mermaids
- Fairies
- Leaves
- Insects
Look Out For
Rich blue and green enamel work alongside beautifully carved faces.
Edwardian Jewellery (1901–1914)
History
Named after King Edward VII, this era coincided with the French Belle Époque and introduced a lighter, more elegant aesthetic. Platinum's strength allowed jewellers to create delicate lace-like settings that placed diamonds and pearls centre stage.
Typical Gemstones
- Diamonds
- Pearls
Styles of Setting
Rub-over settings with millegrain edges.
Popular Designs
- Filigree
- Lace motifs
- Double halo rings
- Necklets
- Brooches
- Colliers de chien ("dog collars")
Look Out For
Long pearl necklaces, brooches and delicate platinum craftsmanship.
Art Deco (1920–1939)
History
Named after the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, Art Deco rejected the flowing lines of Art Nouveau in favour of bold geometry and symmetry. The discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 inspired Egyptian Revival designs, while the Jazz Age brought confidence and glamour.
Typical Gemstones
- Diamonds
- Emeralds
- Rubies
- Sapphires
- Onyx
- Jade
- Coral
- Rock crystal
- Cultured pearls
Styles of Setting
- Calibre-cut settings
- Pavé settings
- Millegrain edging
Popular Designs
- Geometric forms
- Sunbursts
- Chevrons
- Fan motifs
- Egyptian Revival
- Long sautoir necklaces
Look Out For
Double clip brooches, exquisite filigree and precisely fitted coloured gemstones.
Post-War Jewellery (1945–1960)
History
Following the end of the Second World War, jewellery reflected renewed optimism and glamour. Christian Dior's iconic "New Look" inspired feminine, luxurious jewellery featuring generous proportions and elegant styling.
Typical Gemstones
- Diamonds
- Citrines
- Aquamarines
- Amethysts
- Topaz
Styles of Setting
- Ballerina settings
- Illusion settings
Popular Designs
Oversized cocktail rings set in elaborate gold and platinum mounts.
Look Out For
- Multi-tonal gold
- Guilloché finishes
- Plaited gold work
Retro Jewellery (1950–1970)
History
Retro jewellery bridged post-war glamour with the bold experimentation of the 1960s. Designs became sculptural, textured and increasingly abstract as the Space Race inspired a new generation of jewellers.
Typical Gemstones
- Diamonds
- Rubies
- Sapphires
- Tourmalines
- Citrine
- Amethyst
- Rock crystal
Styles of Setting
- Textured gold
- Asymmetrical settings
- Cabochon gemstones
Popular Designs
- Stacked rings
- Oversized clusters
- Sculptural forms
- Space Age styling
Look Out For
Bold textured gold surfaces and jewellery designed as wearable sculpture.
Modern Jewellery (1970–Present)
History
Beginning with the bold self-expression of the 1970s, modern jewellery has continually evolved through changing fashions, new technologies and shifting consumer values. Today, sustainability, personalisation and responsibly sourced materials are central to many contemporary designs.
Typical Gemstones
Almost anything goes, including:
- Lab-grown diamonds
- Coloured gemstones
- Turquoise
- Coral
- Lapis lazuli
- Malachite
Styles of Setting
- Mixed metals
- Hammered finishes
- Personalised settings
- Contemporary fine jewellery techniques
Popular Designs
- Chunky chains
- Layered necklaces
- Statement rings
- Vintage-inspired collections
Look Out For
An increasing focus on sustainability, traceability and bespoke jewellery.
